I arrived in Sapa two days ago and have been enjoying my time. The weather is pretty wet most of the time, despite my hope that I would come in after the raining season. Or it is after the rainy season and it is just always wet here.
After arriving at the Chinese border, I was starting to have second thoughts about how much of this trip I really wanted to spend on a bike. Quickly realizing that in order to bike from one place to another met spending a lot of time in far off places that I really have no interest in being in. And I also am starting to fear that I am going to spend the whole time on the bike, without the energy to do anything that might be really enjoyable. The ride to Sapa, only convinced me futher that the bike was a bad idea.
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Starting out in the morning the weahter was decent. Looked like rain, but then so had everyday since I started and usually it was nice as it kept the temperature jlkjdown. Crossing the border was very easy. most of the guards were more interested that someone would actually be biking than anything else so I didnt have to remove my bags for the inspection, just p
assed right through. Finally, out of China and into Vietnam. Then the ride to Sapa began in earnest. It was truly hellish.
From Lao Cai to Sapa is only about 35km. It started raining soon after I crossed the border and would not stop until about an hour before my arrival in Sapa. But because of heavy rains the night before, the frist obstabcle I encountered was a washout in the road. Only about knee deep, it was fairly easily crossed. Then the road started to go up. And up, and up. It would not stop going up until the end. 30km of hill climb. It was the first time in my life I have seen a sign warning of 10% grade on the road. That sign became common, to the point where when I saw a sign that said 6% grade, I thought, "Oh, what relief, I can rest a little on this section." It was absolutely brutal. After a while at some points I simply no longer had the strength and had to get off and push. I realized I was going about the same speed.
After 2 hours, the traffic started to backup. All stop. Landslides had cut the road. Slowly I peddaled to the front of the line to see what my chances of crossing were. The road was out. Would be for at least a couple of hours. However, if you could carry it over, you could cross. I unpacked my bike, and carried my bags over the rocks. The bicycle though was going to be bit more tricky and awkward, the rocks did not align themselves for this type of crossing. But on the edge was mud you could go through to make it around. This was my route. Took of the bike shoes, shouldered the bike and into the mud. Two steps and my right foot sank to my knee, when I pulled up, the mud sucked my shoe off. Next step the left shoe was sucked off. Bike on shoulder, shoes in hand, I went forward. The back hoe that was clearing the road decided it was time to move and I was right behind it. I had to wait, barefoot, shin deep in mud until the driver had to get out to check his position before I could scoot behind the tractor to my bags and the other side. It was a brief moment of elation and accomplishment in an otherwise defeating day.
Once on the other side, I washed off. Got the bike back up and started up, all up. The only nice thing about the slide was the road was empty. After another hour or two vans started to go by. But for the most part I had the road to myself.
Total distance: 42.3k
Average Speed: 9 k/h
Max speed: 34.9 k/h
Time in saddle: 4h35m
Travel time: 6.5+hrs
Total distance traveled: 569k
After arriving at the Chinese border, I was starting to have second thoughts about how much of this trip I really wanted to spend on a bike. Quickly realizing that in order to bike from one place to another met spending a lot of time in far off places that I really have no interest in being in. And I also am starting to fear that I am going to spend the whole time on the bike, without the energy to do anything that might be really enjoyable. The ride to Sapa, only convinced me futher that the bike was a bad idea.
aa
Starting out in the morning the weahter was decent. Looked like rain, but then so had everyday since I started and usually it was nice as it kept the temperature jlkjdown. Crossing the border was very easy. most of the guards were more interested that someone would actually be biking than anything else so I didnt have to remove my bags for the inspection, just p
assed right through. Finally, out of China and into Vietnam. Then the ride to Sapa began in earnest. It was truly hellish.
From Lao Cai to Sapa is only about 35km. It started raining soon after I crossed the border and would not stop until about an hour before my arrival in Sapa. But because of heavy rains the night before, the frist obstabcle I encountered was a washout in the road. Only about knee deep, it was fairly easily crossed. Then the road started to go up. And up, and up. It would not stop going up until the end. 30km of hill climb. It was the first time in my life I have seen a sign warning of 10% grade on the road. That sign became common, to the point where when I saw a sign that said 6% grade, I thought, "Oh, what relief, I can rest a little on this section." It was absolutely brutal. After a while at some points I simply no longer had the strength and had to get off and push. I realized I was going about the same speed.
After 2 hours, the traffic started to backup. All stop. Landslides had cut the road. Slowly I peddaled to the front of the line to see what my chances of crossing were. The road was out. Would be for at least a couple of hours. However, if you could carry it over, you could cross. I unpacked my bike, and carried my bags over the rocks. The bicycle though was going to be bit more tricky and awkward, the rocks did not align themselves for this type of crossing. But on the edge was mud you could go through to make it around. This was my route. Took of the bike shoes, shouldered the bike and into the mud. Two steps and my right foot sank to my knee, when I pulled up, the mud sucked my shoe off. Next step the left shoe was sucked off. Bike on shoulder, shoes in hand, I went forward. The back hoe that was clearing the road decided it was time to move and I was right behind it. I had to wait, barefoot, shin deep in mud until the driver had to get out to check his position before I could scoot behind the tractor to my bags and the other side. It was a brief moment of elation and accomplishment in an otherwise defeating day.
Once on the other side, I washed off. Got the bike back up and started up, all up. The only nice thing about the slide was the road was empty. After another hour or two vans started to go by. But for the most part I had the road to myself.
Total distance: 42.3k
Average Speed: 9 k/h
Max speed: 34.9 k/h
Time in saddle: 4h35m
Travel time: 6.5+hrs
Total distance traveled: 569k
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