Koh Rong, Halloween

I am starting to see how people can get stuck on this island for some extended stays. Everything is slower here.  Without things like internet and electricity it really slows down the pace of things.  There is no rush because you cant respond to that email.  Now, they do have power, but its limited.  I have been having trouble keeping my devices powered, which makes the kindle reader not so great.  2 places seem to have wifi.  and that is limited to when they are running their generators,  the rest are early evening to 10:30 or so, just when you want to be using things. So you can charge or use, tonight ill be charging , since they are all going to be dead.
Tonight, on all hallows eve, I think I will be joining Pablo for his first and my 3rd night dive.  I am really looking forward to it, here they have the phoseflurecent, spelled?, plankton.  When swimming at night you can see it a little, if you swim out, but on the night dive it should be pretty cool.  especially with all the other divers stirring up the water.
Last night was really cool as well.  While sitting on the beach, there was a full moon, patchy clouds showing some of the brighter stars and lots of cloud to cloud lightening flasshing in the sky.  It was a pretty cool sight, and a great thing to watch while eating my whole bbq'd fish.
Between the diving, white sand beaches, warm clean water, and comfortably slow pace to life here, it is going to be hard to leave tomorrow.  Or maybe the day after.

Koh Rong 10/28/2012

After leaving Siem Reap I took a bus overnight to Sihanoukville and transferred out to Koh Rong to start my EFR (emergency first responder) and Rescue diver course.  The EFR course went pretty fast, a review from life guarding and something good to take with me to Australia.  The rescue diver course and search patterns started today with another 2 days of practical skills to go.  The course is pretty easy, but it should make diving in AU pretty fun and hopefully there will be a dive club at UQ I can join in.

Koh rong is a beautitful island.  almost all the accomodation and restuarants are located within 2km of the two piers, but the island itself is rather massive.  The sunset last night was amazing, with the white sand beaches, warm water and wonderful fish dinners I could stay for a while.  There are also some chances to explore, a 7k beach on the west side of the island, a few islands near by that should be swimmable and some trekking options.  Its not the cheapest place, but it is a beautiful island.

Unfortunately this means that there are several guesthouses under construction and seemingly more in the planning stage.  There are also plans to build an airport on the island, although delayed, that would most likely ruin the feel it has now.  Most of the foreigners who are working here think it would be the worst thing to happen to the island.  For those seeking a getaway, I would agree.  It is becoming harder and harder to find those relaxed getaways, without spending thousands on private boats or other transport.  All these damn rich foreigners keep inspiring the locals to build more hotels and spas.  And backpackers keep opening their own bars to draw more people in.

The diving in Thailand is supposed to be much better as far as wildlife and visability, but also more expensive.  It will be interesting to compare.  I will also have to finally get up to the great barrier reef after I arrive in AU.

I think I am going to spend a little more time on the bike.  There is a narrow strip of Thailand, about 2k wide that runs along the coast for almost 80k, pinched between the Gulf of Thailand and Cambodia.  There are also several towns with resorts listed on the maps, hoping for some cheap places as well, at least every 25-50k.  So unlike the flat hot wasteland of northern cambodia, i might actually be able to find some food and a place to stay, without having to do 150k a day.  Worst case, trat the destination, is only 120+k from the border, an unpleasant but doable ride.  From there I need to move with some purpose to Koh lanta to drop the bike and then get down to Penang to be there in time to meet Jayci from the states and prep for the race. Koh rong has been great for running, although it seems there is only one real track.

There are several trails that lead into the jungle across the island.  I have been advised to only take the one to 7k beach (heavily marked).  But I have already come across several others that look interesting.  So if i dont write for a while, I might have disappeared into the jungle...lets hope that doesnt happen.

S-ville 10/26/2012

After finishing my third day at the temples and a full day cooking course it was time to leave Siem Reap.  The temples, as great as they are, do all start to look the same after a couple days.  I am glad that I saved the biggest for last, because otherwise it would have been pretty disappointing to go to the smaller ones after Thom and Wat.   But still, big stone,  1000 year old buildings tend to all look the same to my untrained eyes.  Maybe some study of stone carving and base reliefs ahead of time would make it a little more interesting.

Last night I took an overnight bus and have arrived in Sihanokville, I think thats right, but S-ville for all intensive purposes.  Its definetly a beach resort for the tourist crowd.  I am going to be tranfer this afternoon to Koh Rong, or monkey island.  Although I am told there are no monkeys on the island, but 3 kinds of poisonous snake.  From there I will be able to do my Rscue diver course, which looks like it will be a nice one-on-one course.  And a lot cheaper than the places I saw in Thailand.  

I think I am mostly done with the bike, which is also a nice feeling.  I will be keeping it around for day trips.  The month in Thailand will be nice to have a bike and not need to rent anything while I am there.  Crap internet has wiped the rest of this paragraph and I am too frustrated to retype so this post ends here.

Siem Reap 10/22/2012

I have been in Siem Reap for a couple days now and it has been a different place than the rest.  The contrast you see between the plaes that have been on my trail has been amazing.  From northern Cambodia, which has nothing to Siem Reap which a lot of was seems like a cross between Phuket and Luang Prabang with temples.  It has ice cream, draught beer, all the foods from home but move a few feet from the center and all the poverty is still there.
Unlike Stung Treng near the border which is just poor and dirty.  But in some ways I liked the relaxed atmosphere a lot more.  There is not much to do, but you can make your own plans and there is no rush.  Here in SR I bought the 3 temple pass and feel I need to pack in as much as possible to get my moneys worth before it runs out.
Today I went and explored my first set of temples.  I am starting with the small peripheral ones and working my way toward the bigger ones.  I know that if I do Angor Wat first the rest are just going to suck and not be worth the trouble. I cycled my way to some of the more out lying ones today, ended up doing about 60 on the bike.  Now the odometer is at 972, only another 30k to hit the 1000k mark.  Which is good, because that is where I told myself I could finish and after SR I dont think I am going to be biking much.  I have a half-marathon to get ready for.  Biking and running do not go together like crickets and beer (not cricket and beer, crickets, fried, and beer).  It is just to tiring.
After finishing the temples in SR and maybe a cooking class it is going to be south to Koh Rong to complete my rescue diver and EFR.  Maybe a week on a secluded island will do the trick and I can get some running on the beach done.  Hopefully we (Pable Kristin and I) will be able to rent a small boat and put a couple day camping trip together on the island.  But that may take more planning and purchasing than wanted.

Stung Treng to Kratie, 10/19/2012

Last time I wrote I waxed on about how great my luck has been on the trip and wonderful experiences chance has brought my way.  Well chance is a fickle bitch.  I decided to try the Mekong Trail from Stung Treng (ST) to Kratie.  190k, was going to be attempted over a lazy 3 or 4 days.  Instead I ended up going the whole way in a day...
From ST to Kratie the Mekong Trail covers 190 kilometers along the river with ferry crossings and home stays.  It sounded like a lot of fun and a different cycling experience.  Highway 7 from Laos to ST was dreadfully boring, flat and hot.  Information about the trail was hard to come by. Big picture maps and locations where easy to find, but there was no detail information.  Night one was supposed to be an island homestay, but there was no info about where to find a boat to get to the island.  Most the trails seemed to be arranged around a day trip from the city with the riders doing a loop to return at night.  As such there appeared to be a 60-80 dead spot between the two cities without much infrastucture.  I was hoping that either there would be more (most info is 2 years old) or there would be a small town I could stop in, my hope was poorly placed.
The ride started great.  The road was better than expected, tracking along the river the views were nice and there was shade over the trail.  A few small wats and lots of kids shouting hello made the ride pleasant and was able to make good time.  Before leaving I asked about finding a boat and was suggested the large village near the island should be able to help, no problem, just need to arrive there.  Arriving at what I  thought might be the main village, I was greeted by someone who spoke English and informed me 5k down the road would be something akin to a pier or ferry.  5k passed.  Maybe his distance was off.  10k, another small village with a group of people building something, at this point I was almost past the end of the island, this had to be the place.  Armed with a map, a tablet Khmer English dictionary and hope I started asking for a boat.
Koh Preah (the island's name) I said and pointed to the island.  Yes, thats Koh Preah was the response I interpreted.  I want to go to there.  Boat, I displayed on my tablet.  Yes, you need a boat to get there I think they said.  This went on for a couple of minutes.  They used the map to show me where I was, I already knew my GPS works great.  Where Koh Preah was, I knew, I was looking at it.  But no boat appeared.  A bust.
So I kept going.  And the trail started to narrow.  First wide enough for two lanes, now it was one.  Then a narrow one lane.  Then two people could walk side by side, a nice motorbike track.  The path started to deteriate (thats spelled wrong).  Ruts got larger, mud and stagnant water started to appear.  And finally from foot path to disappearing completely into the bush.  At that point a few locals were around.  Using the map I showed the track and the next Southern village, does it connect?  No.  That exchange was pretty clear, I was at the end of the road.  Only choice, turn back.  Now already 50k into my trip, it was return to ST (a 100k day that achieved nothing) or push on.  Forward ho.
After back tracking and taking a small path back to highway 7 I was finally back on the main road.  After checking the GPS I found that although I had already covered about 70k, I was only 35k south of ST.  Kratie was another 110+k down the road.  My only hope was a hotel in a small town.  Pushing on.  Oh I should mention that at this point I was having trouble finding food.  Not a lot of restaurants in the Cambodian back country, go figure.  I was able to find some stale bread.  It had been fortified with a small ant colony for extra protien, was pretty good.
And so the push south continued... for almost 7 hours.  I was able to get some noodles and around dusk I started asking people if there was a hotel around.  No.  About 7pm, its pitch black.  Most homes dont have electricty, those that do appear to be running off car batteries I say being delivered, it was the only thing that distracted kids from saying hello to me the entire way.
At this point I was starting to think that I would be pushing all the way to Kratie (only another 60k remaining).  After doing the math on my speed though I realized that one I would be out of water and all "shops" would be closed (I stocked up at the next one) and two I would most likely arrived after 11.  Everything including hotels start to close around 10:30.  I might have trouble finding a decent place to sleep.  Throughout the day I had been passed by minibuses and the last hour several had gone by empty.  I decided it was time to say fuck this pedaling shit, I need a bus.  20 minutes later I was delivered an empty bus and nice driver who I think kept asking me if I spoke Korean (when I said hello in Korean he was very amused, but thats all I know).  He took me the rest of the way, got a nice hotel, meal right at closing time, two beers and a showers.  I think this ride is the death knell of my trans-city cycling.  Buses and day trips from now on.  Oh and a lot more planning before leaving town.

Ramble on (2, Chance)

The more time on the road the more I have come to realize the power and luck of Chance.  Everything on the road is left open for chance to come and stir things up.  Meet someone traveling the same direction, decide to skip a stop and follow them because they have a timetable.  Go for a walk and run across a group of Germans (and an Austrian) teaching in Northern Cambodia and get invited to join them for dinner.  In so many cases the sheer randomness and the results are almost unnerving.  Roaming the area and choosing Guest Houses from their signs, picking buses or taxis by the drivers facial expressions, all leads to one set of possible outcomes.
The last couple days the conversation was often about time travel (Pablo and his odd self-love time travel book found in a random restaurant).  Now I am thinking about what if I stayed in one place but could live out each of the different choices?  How much different would things be?  or overall would you end up with the same expereinces and simply different names on your Facebook page?  Knowing there is only one path I can take it makes me wonder about what is going into each decision I make (I have been reading a lot of decision theory lately).  Should I put in more effort to each choice? less and just go with it?
I know today I would not have met the Germans and not have been invited to dinner if I stayed at the first Guest house that I saw, but would have saved $2.  Who knows who I would have met instead.  I think I am spending too much time planning, as chance has taken me pretty far this trip.  Then again maybe chance+planning is the key to the wealth of positive experiences I have put together on this trip.  If only I had my time machine to go back and try the other paths as well, then again if I did that I would miss the path where I never had my time machine.

Don Det to Stung Treng 10/16/2012

Finally decided to get back on the bike and try to see if riding in the hot and flat is better than in the moderate and mountainous.  I flew.  My bike computer crapped out this morning, so I didnt have speed or distance on the road.  But I was able to use kilometer markers and my wrist watch to find that I was making just under 20 kph.
Distance today: 81km
Total time: 5.5 hours
Average speed: maybe 19.5 kph
Total Distance so far: about 785 km

I am going to spend two nights here while I look into the Mekong Discovery trail, if the daily rides are kept short, then I think it will be a fun couple of days.  It has to be better than what I went through today.  Northern Cambodia, off the river, is a boring place.  Flat, hot, mostly scrub bush and low trees.  Stung Treng is the first real town and the first place with more than a couple shacks on the side of the road.  Hopefully I will be able to take the trail and get some scenery and maybe a local village to stay in for a night or two.

Don Det Local news, 10/13/2012

Sitting at the restaurant in Don Det I was able to overhear the owner, an Australian expat who has been living here for 10 years and another European expat (Belgian I think) living in the community discuss the local issues.  The conversation went something like this...

You know xx, he invested in a lot of money in this place nearby and has these monkeys that were going to be involved in the business.  He was going to take them there, but something happened and it fell apart.  Now he's got 6 adult monkeys.  Yea, nobday wants 6 adult monkeys, that really didnt work out for him.

I was not able to clearly hear the whole story, but from what I could make out, it sounded like an interesting problem to have. There are at least 2 foreign expats that have set up shop on the island, I believe there are a few more.  It is hard to put myself in their shoes and try and see the place how they do.  I can not imagine here as being the place could choose to disappear to.  But then maybe thats the idea.  Its a very interesting place.

The rate of construction seems to suggest its only going to grow.  A hotel owner said in a few weeks every room on the island wil be full.  Now it feels like 25-50%.  The change would be rather dramatic.  Our kayak guide yesterday said there are 900 locals on the island and during the high season (or dry season), there would be more tourists than locals.  One thing I can not understand is how they will feed everyone.  Restaurants are slow, 45min to an hour somtimes, and they only have like 2-3 tables.  If they are full, how would they serve? 3 hours for dinner?  with a curfew at 12 I think people would be going home hungry.

I am thinking about a final cycling run from here into Cambodia.  I wan to get off the bike, but I also realy want to hit 1000k first.  At least I need to take a little bragging rights with me and 1000k sounds like a nice round number to go with.  Plus the trail in northern Cambodia sounds fun and may make having a bike with me finally worth some of the hastles and extra costs.  After I think I can get it to Koh Lanta and store it at the boxing camp till I return after the race.  I think it would be nice to have my own transport if I stay for a month of boxing and diving.  But then I have decided when and where to go next?  Christmas in Australia? 3 months teaching in Cambodia?  Volunteer in an animal shelter? Farm hand?  The closer I get to school, the more thoughts of disappearing to easy South-Asian life keep popping up.

Don Det, 4,000 Islands 10/12/2012

Arrived in Don Det last night after a relatively painless local truck took us from the bus station in Pakse.  It has been a surprising that the chartered minivan travel packages and the self-arranged travel is almost always the same or close in cost.  Even with multiple people and asking about tuk-tuk costs I think all farang are still significantly over-charged for the small things like local transport.  I think if you stayed a while worked and made some local friends you could really live here cheap, as it is already pretty low cost to start with.
However, the island we are on is pretty crappy overall. Water in the river is a solid brown.  Lots of trash has been caught on the branches of the many trees that poke out of the river, or in piles on the ground waiting to be burned, or being eaten by cows.  And the sad thing is, it seems that the locals do more littering than the tourists.  Always think its the outsiders coming and destroying the place, but in this respect most of the traveleres i have met are very careful about littering, putting trash in their pockets till they can find a place to dispose of it.  On the other hand, local people throw everything out the bus window.  LIttle children rip open bags and toss them on the ground, dogs and human scanvengers rip through trash looking for something and spreading the rest around the area.  Would really like to believe that people would take better care of their homes given how easy it seems a few small changes could make a huge difference.  The tree/river shrubs are coated in plastic bags.  Hundreds of wispy fingers coming up through the water each grasping its own personal shopping bag.
Between that and the toilets down on the water, I dont think I will be doing any swimming.

Phosavan to Pakse

The Lao sleeper bus... where to begin?  This is my second sleeper busin as many weeks and the experiences could not be more distinct.  I sit now in the grannies attic over the bus dirver in one of 5 "beds" for the 10 hour journey.  Most of the births are double beds, but there is no divider.  You just share a campt bed with a possible stranger.  Male female, old young, big small, clean or just from a 70k cycle with no shower, its luck of the draw.  For a couple traveling together it could be quite nice, almost romantic or cozy.  But being in the forward birth with 2 other Lao men, cozy and romantic are not the adjectives that are coming to mind.  I am hoping the other 2 will remain empty, but given the full nature of the bus, I am not holding out much hope.
The last sleeper bus was almost empty.  Everyone had their own bunk. It was the most comfortable bus ride I have had.
Another just arrived, only one space left and then it getss really cozy.  Its now really cozy. I can only be thankful that I dont have the middle as it has no back.  This is going to be an interesting night.  Only 10 hours to go.  I think I am going to aim for the A/C bus next time.  I think a seat might be better, even if less comfortable.  But then comfortable has now become a relative term.  Although it does seem a good way to meet people.  One bunk mate has an amazing mullet.  I have not seen anything like it since 2 days ago. I might be able to sneak a slick cell phone photo.
About time to leave, I think we might go head to feet.  Not sure who wins and loses on this one.
(next morning).  The ride wasnt as bad as it could have been.  The Korean snored like a banshee, but I guess thats only karma.  Everyone just wrapped up in their blanket and did their best not to roll.  All things considered 10 hours, no seat on a slow Chinese train is still my most unpleasant travel exprience.
Its already 3pm, been on buses for 17 hours, there does not seem to be an end in sight. Bring a book, batteries die.

In the end the trip was 27 hours from Phonsavan to Pakse.  It took 3 buses.  One sleeper birth for 5, a nice local bus, and another transfer to a full bus where I got a plastic stool in the center isle for 2 hours before an empty seat opened up.  It was not what I had planned.  I am seriously considering a trade, my bike for a motorbike.  Straight up.  In Wuhan my bicycle cost more than my motorbike.  So used bike for used motorbike? 

Luang Prabang, 10/5/2012

Tonight is my last night in Luang Prabang.  I am glad that I came back.  The trip 5 years ago was too fast and it has been nice to have some time to relax and enjoy the surroundings.
Yesterday I cycled out to Kuang Si falls and Bear Rescue.  The falls were really amazing, the color was a lot bluer and greener than I was expecting.  The ride out was finally some rolling hills and not only up, so I was able to make so good time without devastating myself on the ride.  So now I have crossed the 600k mark on my odometer, only another couple thousand to go... I think I am going to be taking advantage of the ease of putting the bike on the bus.
At the entrance to the park there is a small bear rescue, but it seems that the bears, like the pandas in Chengdu dont do much besides sleep.
Once into the falls there are several pools for swimming and the water was a welcome cool after the hot the ride.  One girl that I had been traveling with was somewhat afraid of leeches, so I tried to make her feel better by telling about my trek in the north.  Several years ago I was trekking in Luang Nam Tha and there were leeches everywhere.  So small that they would go right through you shoes and socks.  But they were small and painless so it really wasnt bad, just had to check every couple hours.  But now its pretty dry, it shouldnt be a problem.  That story didnt help.  After swimming for a while and getting ready to leave she mentioned that there didnt seem to be any leeches and it was nice.  I made a quick, mock check of my feet and legs and sure enough in the middle of my foot was one small black leech sucking away.  Of the 5 people or so that we were with, I was the only one with one small sucker on my foot.  The irony was not lost.  After popping it off and washing my feet, it was time to cycle back to town.
After walking back to my bike I went to change my shoes and tiny little bit had not stopped bleeding, the whole of my foot was covered in blood.  All the tuk-tuk drivers were sitting around waiting for fares and were surprised.  After a few seconds and quick wipe with my towel and all that was left was a tiny little pin prick.  Damn anti-coagulates (spelling?).
We all met up again for dinner.  Two Israelis, a Dutch and an American walk into an Indian restuarant in Laos...seems like a set up for a good joke...we had a good dinner.  Later drinks and late night bowling.  I got up a little late this morning and missed the only bus to Phonsavan, to be fair if I had gotten up when I had planned I woudl have missed it anyway.  So one more night and then out tomorrow.  A day or two in Phonsavan and then on to Pakse to try and meet up with Pablo and Kristin.  Another 20 hours of buses, but then I can relax a while and the land should be flat.  Maybe I can start to think about cycling again.  Or maybe I should start running to get ready for the race in Malasia... or not.

10/2/2012, Laos

Yesterday, I decided to sprint from Sapa to Laos and ended up on 27 hours of buses to make the trip.  The original plan to take it easy and maybe spend some time in Dien Bien Phu was changed almost as fast as I got on the bus.  I met an Israeli girl who was traveling the same route and had some info about ongoing buses so I decided to tag along.  Ended up taking three buses with less than an hour down time between to get from Sapa, Vietnam to Luang Prabang, Laos in 27 hours.  Actually one of the more pleasant full days spent on a bus I have had.  Taking the bike was a lot easier and cheaper than I was expecting.

Luang Prabang is as laid back and chill as I remember from before.  This time I am looking forward to having more than 36 hours to enjoy and relax.  Tomorrow I am going to be taking a cooking class for the day and the day after planning on biking to a nearby waterfall and maybe getting some swimming.
I forgot how annoying and pushy the people in Vietnam can be.  Its too bad because it is a great country if not for the people.  Sapa was nice and I am glad I went, but now I am also glad to be in a country where you are more likely to be completely neglected rather than harassed to by something at every turn.
Hopefully, I will be able to run into Pablo and Kristin by the end of the week in Pakse and we can do something together outside of China for a first.